Skin Penetration of Caffeine from Marketed Eye Creams

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Caffeine has recently become popular as a component of topical anti-aging cosmetic products due to its wide-ranging biological activity. The aim of this study was to determine the amount of caffeine that permeated through a skin-like synthetic membrane from marketed eye creams. A prestige and a mass anti-aging eye cream for women and an anti-aging eye cream for men were selected to be studied. Physicochemical characteristics, including pH, appearance and droplet size were studied. Permeation of caffeine was tested in vitro using Strat-M®membrane on Franz diffusion cells. Caffeine was analyzed using HPLC. Appearance of the products slightly differed, their pH was similar. All three eye creams were monodisperse, the average droplet size varied between 1-3.5 μm. The mass product for women contained the highest amount of caffeine in 1 g eye cream. In this 24-hour study, the largest caffeine permeation (0.49%) via Strat-M® membrane was observed from the prestige eye cream for women. Eye creams containing caffeine will be formulated using in silico modeling and tested for in vitro release and in vitro permeation. Data from this preliminary study will guide in designing the creams. A. S. acknowledges support from the UT Office of Undergraduate Research (FYSRE).

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cosmetic science; pharmacy; BSPS; caffeine; eye creams; Franz diffusion cells; HPLC; skin penetration; in vitro; anti aging; permeation

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